How to Master Mom’s Pasta

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When I was growing up, pasta night was ground beef, onions, garlic, and a bottle or two of ragu spaghetti sauce served over a pile of overcooked dried pasta from a rectangular box, sprinkled liberally with powdered parmesan.

I loved it. When I was 12.

Now, I’ve learned that “American Spaghetti” has NOTHING on the real thing. Smooth and silky fresh pasta, dressed with the right kind of sauce for the shape, flavors balanced, served hot… Heaven.

We’re going to make mom jealous.


Introduction to Pasta

We often consider pasta to be Italian, since Italy produces more pasta than any other nation globally, and most of the dishes we eat that require pasta are of Italian origin. It’s true that Italians popularized pasta and helped spread it all over the globe, but pasta’s origins can be traced back either to the Arab world or, as legend has it, to the legendary Italian explorer Marco Polo, who is thought to have brought inspiration for pasta back from Asia in the form of delicious chinese noodles.

FUN FACT:

Pasta and noodles are not the same thing. Noodles are of Asian origin and are made with soft flour, salted water, and are almost always served with a broth of some kind. Pasta, on the other hand, is of (vaguely) European origin and is made from hard flour, a liquid (usually water or eggs), and served with a sauce of some kind. Obviously, these distinctions are not absolute – some asian noodles are served with a sauce (like Lo Mein) and some pastas are served in soup (like orzo). Simply be aware that Pasta and noodles are different (but not REALLY that different).

Pasta is one of the most versatile and convenient foods to prepare. You can have them with or without egg, soft or firm, fresh or dried, flavored or plain, colored, filled, and decorated.

Dried pasta and noodles are essential foods in almost every culture because they store well, cook quickly, and provide a base or accompaniment for many popular dishes. Many pasta varieties can also be purchased fresh or frozen. Colored and vegetable-flavored pastas add color and nutrition to many entrees. Pasta gets its name from the shape into which it is formed is used in appetizers, entrees, salads, and even desserts.

Dumplings are cooked balls of dough that often include a filling ingredient, such as pork, vegetables, or even sweets. Ravioli, which we refer to as pasta, really falls under the definition of dumpling. Virtually every type of cuisine has a dumpling dish, from Chinese dumplings to Polish pierogi (pyeh-ROH-ghee). Pasta and dumplings are important elements of most cuisines because they are made from inexpensive, staple ingredients, and they can be used in many dishes.


Fresh v Dried Pasta

Commercially-made dried pasta only has two ingredients: durum semolina flour and water.

Commercially processed pasta only has two ingredients: semolina and durum flour

Semolina flour

Semolina flour made from Durum wheat is the classic, traditional option for pasta making. This is the ingredient that’s been used for hundreds of years by Italians, and if you’re looking for the best pasta taste and texture, it’s unbeatable.

Semolina flour is made from durum wheat, and it has a much coarser texture than other flours (it actually looks and feels a bit like cornmeal) because it is the coarsely ground endosperm of durum wheat. Semolina’s deep yellow color comes from high concentrations of carotenoids (the same compounds responsible for the brilliant colors of carrots, mangos, and apricots).

That yellow color is a classic Italian pasta feature. More importantly, Semolina is a “hard” flour with a very high gluten content (over 13%). It’s that gluten content that’s going to give your pasta the best shape it can have.

Fresh pasta, on the other hand – especially pasta for those delicate shapes and light sauces – is usually made from fine-milled “00” flour.

Tipo 00

Tipo 00 flour is the most commonly used flour in Italian households for soft egg pasta. ‘Tipo 00‘ is an Italian term to describe how finely the flour is milled. Importantly, the gluten levels in Tipo 00 flour are LOW – it can range from 6% to well below 12%. That’s less gluten than in good old AP Flour!

This is due to the difference in the tender wheat grown in Europe. You can’t make a thick, rustic pasta with Tipo 00… it would fall apart while it cooks.

Key differences

Many differences exist between fresh pasta and dried pasta.

  • Fresh pasta cooks VERY quickly – Only a few minutes. Dried pasta takes between 8 and 12 minutes in simmering (190*F) water.
  • Fresh pasta has a limited shelf life and needs to be refrigerated. Dried pasta is good for up to 2 years at room temperature.
  • Fresh pasta is frequently flavored with olive oil, eggs, fresh herbs, and vegetables. Dried pasta is RARELY flavored (and you can’t really taste the flavor even when it is).
  • Both fresh and dried pasta is done when it feels firm to the bite, or al dente (ahl DAN-tay). It should retain a bit of “chew.”
  • Most varieties of fresh pasta float when done cooking; dried pasta does not.

Because fresh pasta cooks so quickly, food preparers have no reason to cook it in advance. Most restaurants par cook their pasta, then reheat by placing it in a wire basket and dipping it briefly in a pot of boiling water.


Making Fresh Pasta

For fresh pasta dough, use four simple ingredients: eggs, salt, olive oil, and flour (semolina, durum wheat flour, and/or Tipo 00). For flavor and color, add fresh herbs, spices, and vegetables. When adding vegetables to the mixture, the food preparer must ensure that they are as dry as possible before mixing into the dough. Chop or finely mince fresh herbs.

When mixing pasta dough, the most important stage is the resting stage. If the dough is not sufficiently relaxed, it will be difficult to roll the dough into thin sheets. The dough will just tear and you will be sad.

When it is ready to roll, pasta dough should be smooth, elastic, and just barely moist. When the dough has rested 15-30 minutes (depending on the specific recipe), it is ready to be rolled into thin sheets. Note: Resting time depends on the type of flour and the type and amount of tenderizing agents used. Follow the resting time stated in the recipe. 

Fold the dough into thirds (like a letter) and pass through pasta machine at its widest setting (0). Refold and pass through again. And again. Then you will start reducing the size and passing the pasta through, usually two or three times per setting. Stop when you are at your preferred thickness. Cut to desired shape.

Hold fresh, uncooked pasta under refrigeration for 18-24 hours, or freeze it. If it is to be stored longer, dry the pasta and store it in the same manner as commercially prepared dried pasta.

Egg pasta will oxidize after about 18 hours, leaving gray-green streaks on the surface of the dough. This does not indicate that the dough has gone bad. Simply fold and knead until the discoloration disappears. Dough that is held longer than that will oxidize badly and need to be thrown away.

NEVER attempt to roll out cold pasta dough. It MUST come to room temperature first.

Rolling out the dough is a process best done with a pasta roller.

To make shaped pasta (like macaroni, elbow, rigatoni, etc) you have to use an extruder. Professional extruders start at a couple hundred dollars and get into the thousands quickly. Few restaurants make their own extruded pastas.



Carrot, egg, beet, squid ink, and spinach pastas

Serving Pasta

The sauce served with pasta must be the right consistency to complement the shape and type of pasta.

  1. Long, flat pastas, such as fettuccine and linguine, are best served with smooth, light cream and tomato sauces.
  2. Tube and twisted pastas are best served with heavier, thicker sauces, such as chunky tomato and meat sauces, because they catch the sauce.
  3. Remember that pasta can be covered and baked in a variety of ways, such as lasagna.
  4. Fresh pasta should be paired with a light cream or butter-based sauce
  5. Heartier meat sauces are better for dried pastas.
  6. Filled pastas need only a very light butter or oil sauce because a heavy sauce overpowers or conflicts with the flavor of the filling.
  7. NEVER rinse pasta before saucing; you will rinse of the starch coating which helps the sauce to stick.
  8. NEVER coat pasta with oil before saucing. That’s naaaaasty.
  9. ALWAYS toss pasta in sauce before plating. NEVER pour sauce over plain pasta.


Pasta Yields

The following are some rules of thumb for pasta:

  • Dried pasta doubles in size when cooking
  • One pound of dried pasta needs one gallon of liquid.
  • One pound of dried pasta yields 3 pounds of cooked pasta.
  • One pound of fresh uncooked pasta yields 2 – 2.5 pounds of cooked pasta.
  • 2 ounces of dried pasta equals about 1 cup of cooked pasta (about 1 serving); a pound of cooked, dried pasta yields about 8 cups

The 21 types of pasta you should be familiar with


FURTHER RESOURCES

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