Preheat oven to 400°F. Prick each potato all over with a fork, then bake directly on the oven rack for 45 to 60 minutes, until the internal temperature reads about 210°F.

The moment the potatoes come out of the oven, slice them open and scoop the hot flesh straight into a ricer or food mill onto your work surface. Work quickly — the steam that escapes now is what keeps the dough light.

Spread the riced potato out in an even layer rather than leaving it in a mound.

Beat the egg yolks with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Drizzle evenly over the spread potato.

Sprinkle the flour and Parmigiano-Reggiano over the top. Using a bowl scraper, gently fold and gather the mixture together — do not knead. Stop the moment it holds together as a smooth, slightly sticky dough.

Roll portions into long ropes on a floured surface. Cut into half-inch pieces and roll each off the tines of a fork to create ridges.

Bring a pot of gently salted water to a boil. Cook in batches for 3 to 4 minutes, until the gnocchi rise to the surface. Serve immediately, or freeze the shaped, uncooked gnocchi in a single layer before bagging.